Pearls

Few gemstones define “class” and “luxury” like pearls. Worn by royalty, First Ladies, and movie stars, the pearl is also June’s original birthstone. Many brides also choose to wear pearls for their weddings, due to the pearl’s purity and religious significance, as in “the pearl of great price.”

Pearls are formed by shelled mollusks, when a tiny irritant has found its way into the mantle folds of the animal. Not all of these “pearls” are considered valuable gemstones, however. Only nacreous pearls, which are formed by the secretion of nacre (or “mother of pearl”), are commercially valuable. Pearl oysters are found in saltwater (Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian), while freshwater pearl mussels thrive in rivers, ponds, lakes, and other freshwater bodies.

Grading

Unlike other gemstones, pearls have no industry-wide grading system. In fact, pearls are often treated by dyeing, irradiation, or “luster” treatments, so it is extremely rare to get a completely untreated cultured pearl. However, size, shape, thickness, color, luster, clarity and symmetry are all factors used in grading pearls. These factors are judged by type of pearl; i.e., Akoya is graded against Akoya, South Sea against South Sea. Jeweler.com can help you find the perfect pearl for that special person in your life.

• *Luster* - The inner glow of the pearl. Many experts call this the “heart and soul” of a pearl, and it distinguishes pearls from all other gemstones. The light reflecting off the layers of nacre creates the luster.
• *Surface* - The fewer number of markings or spots on the pearl’s visible surface makes the pearl more valuable.
• *Shape* - Pearls may be round, semi-round, off-round, oval, drop, and baroque. Round is the usually the most valuable because it is the most rare.
• *Color* - Cultured pearls can range in color from silvery white to black, with a rainbow of colors in between. The main color of the pearl is called the “body color,” and “overtones” are the transparent colors that appear over the body. The value of this factor is usually up to the individual.
• *Orient* – When the pearl is turned, shimmering, iridescent colors that seem to move with the pearl are visible. The light reflecting through the layers of nacre causes this to occur, and it is referred to as the “orient.”
• *Size* - Typically, the larger the pearl, the more valuable it is because more nacre is present in the pearl. Pearls can range from less than 1 millimeter to 20 millimeters (3/4 of an inch) for the largest Tahitian pearls.
• *Matching* - This has to do with pairs and strands of pearls. The better pearls look together shows that more time was taken in matching the uniformity of color, size, luster, shape and graduation of the pearls.

Caring For Your Pearls

Since pearls are the only organic gemstones in the world, extra care is required to ensure that their beauty will last for a lifetime. They are softer than other gems, so they can be damaged more easily, whether from scratches or cracking. Pearls can also become dull or cloudy over time due to exposure to hair spray, perfume, or even natural body oils and perspiration. Waiting to put your pearls on until you’ve finished putting on cosmetics, perfume, antiperspirant, and hairspray will help keep your pearls looking their best.

Wipe your pearls with a soft, damp cloth before putting them away after wearing in order to remove any body oil residue. Periodically, you should wash them with a mild soap and soft cloth. It’s also a good idea, from time to time, to put your pearls in the bathroom while you shower, so they can absorb some of the moisture. This is especially true for saltwater pearls, as they can dry out and crack over time.

When storing your pearls, you should be sure to keep them separated from other jewelry items so they won’t get scratched. Wrap them in a soft cloth, silk or satin bag, or a lined jewelry box of their own for best results.